You’re now ready to head to the beach and get your feet wet, but first you need to learn how to position yourself on a surfboard. It’s probably best to practice this on the beach before you head out into the water.
To begin with place your board on the sand (in this case, on the floor) and lay on it stomach first. Make sure that your feet are touching the end of the surfboard and the nose of the board is level with the sand. If the nose of the surfboard is sticking up, move forward. If the nose is pointing into the sand, move towards the bottom of the board.
Correct board position
Ideally you want to lay in the middle of the surfboard with your chest just above the centre point. Most people tend to lean back towards the tail of the board causing the nose to rise. This will create resistance when your in the water and make it harder to paddle. Positioning yourself too far forward will cause the nose to sink.
Incorrect board position
Now that you’re balanced on the surfboard you need to paddle. Extend your arm forward with your hand cupped and drag the water backwards bending your elbow at the same time. Move one arm forward at a time, not both at the same time. The more resistance you create with your hands the faster you will move.
How to paddle
The best way to find out where you should be on your board whilst paddling is by paddling around in the sea and shifting your body back and forth. If the nose of your board is digging in the water lots and you find it difficult to paddle your too far forward. If the nose of your board is pointing at the sky out of the water and its difficult to paddle your too far back. When you’re in the right place you will know, it will be easier to paddle than you think.
Most of the time if the nose of the board is just above the surface of the water, occasionally dipping under the ripples of the sea, your in the right place. The only exception to this is, if your on a big foamie or mini-mal and in the white water, you’ll want to be a tad further back, otherwise when the wave catches you and pushes you forward you will pearl the board i.e. the nose will dig in and you’ll flip over the front.
I found paddling on my first lesson much harder than I expected it to be. It requires a considerable amount of upper body strength, which I don’t really have. Since then I have been swimming regularly to improve my fitness and build up strength in my arms.
When I first began learning to surf I used the logo on my mini-mal as a marker for correct board position. I’d line my chest up with the logo whilst paddling out.